Its been a while.
We had a great
time on the Cape Verdes. San Nicolau was much more basic than Sal – less
tourists – less „tourist industry“. The boat kids where happy with 50 cent,
whereas on Sal the „charged“ 1 CVE (Cape Verde Escudo). On San Nicolau we anchored in Port Taraffal –
the „busy“ town of San Nicolau - it was
very relaxing. Friendly people, decent food, good
anchorage. After three days we sailed over to San Vicente/Mindelo the economic
capital of the Cape Verdes. Mindelo was completely different from what we had
seen on the Cape Verdes so far. The biggest difference where paved roads, real
supermarkets – a real city; Mindelo has approx. 60.000 people.
My parents came
for a visit and it was a very, very nice time for us. The highlight was a visit
to Santo Antao – the island just north of Mindelo. Contrary to the other
islands of the Cape Verdes we had seen so far Santo Antao had some really
tropical areas. We hiked the greenest valley – Valle do Paul – up, through some
amazing landscape. The green was new to us.
After almost 2
weeks with my parents we got ready to leave Mindelo and sail across the Atlantic.
We were very anxious to leave, afraid, sad to leave the beloved ones. So on
December 6th we hughed my parents good buy, sailed out the safe harbour of
Mindelo and headed west – 2100 miles of open water ahead of us – we headed for
Tobago.
We shifted to
transit mode. Night watches, everything tied up on board. The first two days
went fine, then the wind quit and we had three days of hardly any wind. After
that the wind came back – stronger than we liked. And with the wind came high
waves – unfortunately from all sides. When we were about one week out – 1400
miles to Tobago – our autopilot striked due to strong winds and big waves. I
tried to repair our autopilot for three days and also our second autopilot had
problems keeping on course. Many times we had to get up in the middle of the
night, because the autopilot was completely off course.
We were afraid
that we would have to steer the boat by hand. A terrifying idea that laid heavy
on our minds – we counted down the miles. Since the autopilot could not keep
the course we wanted to go, we tested what course the autopilot could go – and
that was Barbados. So we changed our plans – plus Barbados was the easternmost
island – a pleasant thought to have less miles.
After 16 days on
December 23rd, Martina finally screamed at 4 in the morning „LAAAAAANNNNNNDDDD“ – she had discovered the
lights of Barbados. At sunrise we passed the northern tip of Barbados. It was
an undescribable feeling to stand on land again at Port St. Charles where we
cleared in. It was a very difficult time for us and we didn´t like the
crossing, but we made it and we had crossed the Atlantic – we were very proud
of us!
We anchored in
Carlisle Bay next to the capital bridge town and hit the full christmas atmosphere
– from open Atlantic to Christmas, big difference. Our friends from Austria
Dorrit and Horst spend their vacation on Barbados and celebrated Christmas
evening with us on board. Silent night at sea in warm weather – very strange; I
have never had warm Christmas ever before.
We hooked up with
the Barbados Yacht Club – they were extremely nice and helpfull. So we also celebrated
New Years at their club facilities. It was hard to stay up until midnight – we
are used to live with the sun – but somehow we managed to stay awake and so we
entered a new year – 2014!
Our friends had
brought us a new autopilot from Austria – an Autohelm 2000+. And of course it
did not fit in the place of the old one. When you are a sailor nothing workes
out easy. We built an adapter fort he new autopilot drilling holes through
stainless steel, grind threads, extend the power cable – four days of work.
Our friends left
on January the 6th – ist always hard for us to say good bye to friends, especially
from home. And then it was also time for us to leave. Making plans fort he
Caribbean we decided that there was to much to see in to little time. So instead
of going to Tobago as we planned we aimed for Grenada. On January the 9th we
left Barbados – back to shaky sailing, strong winds, squalls, the autopilot
needed quite some assistance in squalls but handled the crossing o.k.. After
one night and hardly any sleep and 144 miles we tied up in the Le Phare Bleu
Marina in Grenada.
We had reached
Grenada just in time to celebrate Martinas 50th birthday on Jan. 11th. We had a
fancy dinner at the fabulous restaurant of Le Phare Bleu – on an old Swedish
fire ship. The food was delightfull, we had the only table on the open terrace.
But the absolute highlight was a birthday song the owner of the marina
performed with an excellent singer – Sabrina Francis. After their performance
they told us this was the surprise of Philipp from Switzerland, a follower of
our blogg. Martina was in tears when she heard that – it was simply incredible.
Our wind
transmitter had stopped its duty as soon as we had touched Barbados. So we are
right now waiting for a new exchange transmitter that hopefully is willing to
work again. We do lots of repairs on board – things that had given up on the
Atlantic crossing. We will be a few weeks here on Grenada, but we like the
island a lot. Nice people, Caribbean as we imagined it, tropical vegetation,
warm blue water – its wonderfull. Finally we are really in the Caribbean!!
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