Donnerstag, 14. November 2013

ENGLISH POST NO° 6

28.10. - 13.11.2013

Our days in Gran Tarajal/Fuerteventura where delightful. Many sailors from all over the sailing world - English, French, Netherlands, Germany, USA, New Zealand - where there. Some waiting for the ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers - an organized Atlantic crossing)to start, almost all of them wanting to cross the Atlantic. We had a great time. Pot luck barbecue on the parking lot in front of the marina with Florian getting out his guitar, running, some sight seeing. It was a relaxing 6 days. Then it was time to move on.

We sailed to the western most Marina on Fuerteventura (Morro Jable) and spent the night there. Our plan was to spend the next night at anchor at the western most cape of Fuerteventura, cross over to the island of Gran Canaria the next day, spend one more night at a marina there and then depart for the Cape Verde islands.

The weather forecast predicted hardy any wind for the anchoring at the cape. It was a short little 7 mile trip to get there from Morro Jable. As we left the marina we had 25 knots of wind instead of none. There was no way we could anchor at the cape in these conditions so we decided to sail straight to Gran Canaria. When we had passed the cape and entered the canal between Fuerteventura and Gran Canaria the wind softened and the waves increased causing our sails to be unstable. We therefore changed course more south in order to go with the waves. Looking at this course we realized that we would pass Gran Canaria 50 miles to far south. At a second look we saw that our course was straight to the Cape Verde Islands. After some discussions we decided to go to the Cape Verdes right away. So out of 7 miles this day it suddenly was 830 miles to the Cape Verdes. I guess you have to be able to read the signs of life - especially a sailors life - correctly.

It was the right decision. The wind was perfect and we moved on fast. First day etmal 137 miles, second day 120 mile, third day 131 miles. We where in crossing mode. At night the watch shifts became a routine, Martina could handle her sea sickness quite well due to some new pills she had tried. On the fifth day the wind picked up. We had 12-15 Knots from 160° starboard and had our trade wind sails up; genoa on starboard, the jib on port we sailed with 6-7 knots speed direction southeast. Our etmal picked up to 158 miles. The sea got rougher.

It was on the evening of the sixth day, the day before we should reach the Cape Verdes. I was bringing in the fishing line - something that required some good balance and a secure grip. Martina shouted for me to come into the boat. I secured the fishing rod and as I came down into the boat Martina was lying on the bench, bleeding from her left eye. She had lost her balance in a big wave and was thrown against the radio transmitter causing a deep cut above her left eye. Florian realized that this cut would have to be sewn, but he also realized it was impossible in these conditions. So he fixed the wound with some steristrips (surgical band aids) trying to hold the cut firmly together. A big bandage around Martinas head and then she was sent to bed. Florian was to do the watch at this last night before arrival all by himself.

It was a long night. Waves, noise, wind and a record etmal at 6:00 in the morning of 166 miles. ESPERANZA had never sailed as fast within 24 hours.

At 7:00 a.m. we saw the island of SAL, the eastern most island of the Cape Verdes. The approach was bumpy. 3-4 meter waves plus a current moving to the south west coming from the 3000m meter deep Atlantic up to hit the island. We carefully approached Sal and made it through the high rolling waves.

Then we saw the port of Palmeira. As we entered 25-30 knots of wind hit us straight on. Many boats at anchor. The third anchor attempt worked (after some fixing because at the second attempt the anchor for some unknown reason striked) and we anchored next to the harbor entrance buoy. Martina prepared us some arrival lunch as I heard someone whistle outside. The coast guard was next to our boat asking us to move away from the buoy. So again anchor up, further into the field of other ships and finally we found a place to drop our anchor - not perfect but good enough. We had arrived!! 844 miles since Fuerteventura exactly 6 days - average speed 5,861 knots.

Palmeira is a very relaxed place. We cleared into the country, paid the fees and spend the next three days relaxing, washing, eating, sleeping and enjoying ourself (and being proud of ourself). Martina got an African hearstyle with beads and Florian got some running in and explored the vicinity. Sal does not have a lot of vegetation. Some trees/bushes mostly pure soil and rocks. Fish is cheaper than meat (and they hardly have any other meat than chicken). We bought some good fish from the fishermen at the harbor for EUR 3,00 per kilo. And the local beer - Strongbock - costs EUR 1,00 per bottler  (but they are terribly small at 0,25 liters).

After three days of relaxing our personal batteries were recharged. On November 13th we got up at sunrise and lifted the anchor to sail over to the next island to the west - San Nicolau.

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